Wednesday, April 25, 2012

homer or valdez?

Having a hard time picking Valdez or Homer. We can%26#39;t visit both, and we have never been to either of them. Both towns offer things we%26#39;d like to do, but I don%26#39;t want to cram everything; I want to take our time and enjoy the views. Any help with an itinerary, would be appreciated. We%26#39;ll be landing in Anchorage at 2:30p.m., and depart 12 days later from Anchorage. We also want to spend 3-4 days in Denali. Activities for the trip would include, ATV tour, dog sledding/helicoper ride, bear viewing/fishing, rafting, 12 hr. denali bus tour, and maybe a glacier cruise(if we go to Valdez). Our trip will be in June %26#39;07. Thanks



homer or valdez?


We just came back 2 days ago from a 2 weeks trip that included both Valdez and Homer. Homer was nice - the Spit there gave me a ';visiting an ocean vacation town off-season'; kind of feeling. But Valdez was simply amazing - definitely the best destination of our trip (just don%26#39;t mind the RVs and trailer parks). We did the kayaking trip to Columbia Glacier. It was simply amazing - kayaking between huge pieces of ice (which we were told were not really called icebergs) - that%26#39;s the way to really feel the power of a glacier. The glacier cruises can%26#39;t get close enough for that experience. By the way, no experience is necessary for kayaking, and the water is very calm. Also, if you are interested in glaciers you have to hike on them. We went on two on the way between Anchorage and Valdez - Matanuska (the easiest accessible for an easy hike), and Worthington (more of a hill to walk up). For Matanuska we took a guided 4 hour hike and it was well worth it. Without the guide and the crampons we would not have been comfortable enough to walk into the white / blue ice labirinths. We did a lot of driving in the two weeks, but the drive from Anchorage to Valdez was the most spectacular. You will see many different types of tall mountains very close to the road, plus several waterfalls right before Valdez. And Valdez is totally surrounded by beautiful mountains on all sides. You will see beautiful mountains on other drives in Alaska, but none of the drives that we did even came close to the one to Valdez.





We also did a rafting trip and were disappointed by it. What kind of rafting are you looking for? We wanted to do class 4 and were told it was going to be class 4, but when we arrived we found out it was a calm class 3 because this summer was much cooler than usual, so the glacier didn%26#39;t melt enough to produce wilder water. Just something you should check and double check before you make plans for rafting.





Why do you want to spend 3-4 days in Denali? Do you mean inside the National Park or in the area? If it%26#39;s important for you to see Mt. McKinley, then yes, you have a better chance seeing it in 4 days. But if you are just going for seeing the wildlife and the other mountains and hiking, then a day and a half or two is enough. By the way, when the sky is clear you can just as easily see Mt. McKinley from the highway between Anchorage and Denali National Park, just as close as from the shuttle bus route in the park.





If you are interested in hiking let me know - I can post about a few interesting ones we did, with great views and bear encounters. And if you are interested in seeing marine wildlife and a glacier calving take the 6 hour boat tour out of Seward.



homer or valdez?


I prefer Valdez over Homer. The fish seem to be bigger out of Valdez. If you are looking for something historical you will not find much of that in Valdez since if is basically a new city.




Thank you both Alaskarat and Travel10000. I am now leaning towards Valdez. I would love to kayak, but I%26#39;m seriously afraid that I%26#39;ll sink the kayak. The whitewater rafting I may play by ear. Maybe I%26#39;ll do 6 mile creek if I run into the same problem as mentioned. I%26#39;ve decided on 2 full days in Denali. The last time we went, we did the bus tour to the end of the road. There were real bad forest fires in Fairbanks, so we didn%26#39;t see any views, but all kinds of wildlife---which is my real passion. My husband likes to hike(I may not be up for the challenge because I%26#39;m suffering from deteriorating ankle bones--I%26#39;ll just have to see how I%26#39;m feeling)so, I would love so good info on hikes and best places to see wildlife in Denali or Valdez.



On another note, can either of you give me a suggestion for a b %26amp;b in Valdez? I would prefer not to stay in a hotel/motel.



I think since we are skipping Homer, I might add those days to Kennicott. I really loved the isolation there, and my husband wants to try ice climbing again. So this may be a thought. I was also looking at Girdwood instead of Anchorage. There%26#39;s a few activities we want to do, and I thought it gives us a good jumping off point if we want to head down to Seward for the day. What are your thoughts on this. Thank you for any info.




I%26#39;d encourage you to go kayaking. My wife and I did our first kayaking in Alaska about five years ago, and we just came back from our third trip, this time a 7 day kayak trip (plus more kayaking on the side). Anyone can do it. What people don%26#39;t realize is that these trips use sea kayaks, which a big, stable, two person boats with a pedal rudder for stealing. These are not the river kayaks you see where people do rolls, etc. There is very little technique needed to paddle these kayaks, and I have never come close to spilling over, nor have I ever seen anyone. Generally, accidents happen when people fool around in the kayaks. You also have a life preserver on just in case. They are safe, easy, peaceful boats and they are also the most wonderful way to see coastal Alaska.




Two weeks ago I stayed at Del%26#39;s Bunk and Chow I posted a review here at tripadvisor. tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g31156-d6211鈥?/a> if you wish to read it. Also their web site http://www.delsbrat.com. I liked it and it was my first time at a B%26amp;B.




Agree with 10000. I would encourage you to get to Kennicott. The road is getting better each year. Not many people will take this side trip resulting in less ';crowds';.





In Valdez, buy the $5 ticket at one of the two museums (good for both). It%26#39;s a good way to get some history about the pipeline (terminus is in Valdez), 1964 earthquake, AlCan Highway, and other. You can%26#39;t get into the terminal due to 9/11.





My father-in-law went on the Stan Stephens glacier tour and loved it. He did say that lunch wasn%26#39;t much to speak of, but he said he would recommend it.





There are a number of rafting companies along the way to Valdez and in Valdez as well. You can%26#39;t judge the tour based upon someone elses past experience only because the water conditions can change during the season (high or low water). I don%26#39;t know if there is any class IV or V rafting trips out of Valdez. However, some of the class IV and V will require more than just signing on for the trip. You%26#39;ll have to prove your swimming skills. There have been a few accidents over the years, so I only caution you on that if you are a novice.





Rather than driving back over the same highway, you might consider the ferry option from Valdez to Whittier instead. Just a thought.





Have fun and safe journey.




10000,



What hikes did you do? I am heading back to Valdez in a few weeks. Would love to hear about your hikes. Thanks.




Valdez is fine. Both places are on the tourist route. If you want to see a nice little town in an unsurpassed location, hop the new fast ferry from Valdez or Whittier to Cordova. Bring a car, or rent one locally, but go 50 miles from town (Cordova%26#39;s road ends there--no overland connection) and visit Child%26#39;s glacier. Unbelievable! Great hiking all over the area--the local US Forest Service has maps. CordovaChamber.com has more info about Cordova. There is a local outfitter for kayak rental, and a river rafting family outfit. Both are recommended. Rooms at the hotels (only 3) and b%26amp;b%26#39;s are limited--the Chamber of Commerce keeps a list. Cordova is basically a commercial fishing town (home of the famed Copper River Salmon), and welcomes visitors without putting on pretense. It is the genuine Alaskan town: working class, outdoors oriented, not too worried about the facade. Bring rain gear, good boots, binoculars, and a smile.




I think I%26#39;ve come up with some kind of plan. However, nothing is set in stone, and I value everyone%26#39;s ideas. Here it goes:





Day 1: arrive in Anchorage, stay at the Mangy Moose(wev%26#39;ve stayed there before)





Day 2: Bear viewing in Homer-Emerald Air. Drive back to Anchorage for the night. We decided to do the bear viewing early in the trip based on what the owners of Emerald Air suggested about bear viewing , and or bad weather. We also decided to drive to Homer from Anchorage(instead of staying there on day one, because Homer is too long of a drive to Valdez or Healy).We looked into the ferry but decided against it.





Day 3:Drive to Valdez.Probably stay at Blueberry Mary%26#39;s(anyone ever been?)





Day 4: Kayak and take in the town.





Day 5:Maybe do a short hike or two, then depart to Chitina to catch late flight to McCarthy/Kennicott.Stay at Kennicott Glacier Lodge(been there before as well).





Day 6: May either raft, or trek on glacier(husband really wants to go ice climbing again--I%26#39;ll go for the views but not the climb. That%26#39;s were my ankles started to show their deterioration during ice climbing).





Day7: Depart -fly back to Chitina. Drive to Healy via the Denali Hwy. It%26#39;s a long day, but rewarding.Will definitely get the windshield insurance again.





Day8: Some hikes close to enterance area, or farther in the park.





Day9: Bus tour to the end(I personally really enjoyed this tour). I know I can take the shuttle bus to the end--who knows,maybe I will decide on that,--but I do know the farther in the park, the more wildlife. That%26#39;s my goal.





Day 10:Drive to Girdwood (possible stop in Talkeenta, maybe a flightseeing tour).Would like to schedule dogsledding for this day as well in Girdwood. If the weather is poor, I still have 2 more days to reschedule. Last time we rescheduled 3 x%26#39;s, and never did get to do it.





Day 11: ATV tour(we do this everywhere we go and love it)





Day 12: Optional day. Maybe hike, or snowmobile, relax.





Day13:Depart





What do you guys think? Too much? Missing anything. The good thing is the Midnight Sun really get%26#39;s you going.




On day 2 do you really plan to drive from Anchorage to Homer, fly out for bear viewing, and drive back to Anchorage? It%26#39;s about a 4 hour drive each way I think. That%26#39;s a lot of driving for one day. Can%26#39;t you just do the flight out of Anchorage?





I remember reading a nice review for Blueberry Mary%26#39;s, but we stayed in Best Western (since it was only $75 per night after the Toursaver coupon).





www.valdezalaska.org is a nice website, full of info including hiking trails descriptions and maps. We talked to a few people in Valdez and noone sounded excited about any of these trails (and said the trail to Shoup Glacier was very muddy and overgrown), but totally recommended hiking to Worthington Glacier, so that%26#39;s what we did.





On the road to Chitina you can stop at Liberty Falls campground at mile 24 for another beautiful waterfall (after several on the road out of Valdez). Right before this campground (at 23.5) there is a small sign for parking for Liberty Falls trail. It was a nice hike up to the open ridge with amazing views of Wrangell mountains (2.5 miles roundtrip).





We also stopped at the Wrangell-St. Elias Visitor Center by Copper Center and walked behind the center for more beautiful views of those mountains. There is a short easy trail there.





In Denali National Park we did 2 very nice hikes - one in Savage River area and the other in Fish Creek area. We saw dall sheep in Savage River area. There is a 1 mile easy official trail along each side of the river, so you can walk on one side, then across the bridge, and back on the other side, and more trails continuing along the river past the bridge and up to the ridges - totally worth exploring. And you can hike off the trails there in any direction, climb the ridges, etc. Fish Creek area is more open - you can go up hills or stay on level ground, as close or as far away from the road as you want - no trails, just open alpine tundra. I was glad to have waterproof hiking boots on for jumping over little streams and through a marsh area there.





You said you expect more wildlife farther west into the park. I expected that too, but learned from one of the shuttle drivers that the animals seem to move east as the summer progresses. We saw all our wildlife within the first 30 miles of the road (in mid-August). But for June you have a good plan.





There are some hikes you can do in Denali State Park, with a view of Mt. McKinley if the weather cooperates. We planned on doing the Ermine Hill trail, up the mountain to the view and interesting rock formations, but it was raining and we were told that we would have to walk through a lot of mud and on a thin trail with tall plants. So, instead we went around Buyers Lake - about 5 miles circle. It was also very muddy, 1 foot wide, but the plants by the trail were mostly not over knee high. In good weather camping on the other side of the lake should be amazing.





From Girdwood you can drive south to Cooper Landing for a nice easy hike to Russian River Falls (2 miles each way, wide gravel trail, almost flat, nice falls, saw salmon trying to jump up the falls, and a grizzly bear).





For anyone looking for a difficult hike with great rewards there is a hike to the Harding Icefield from Seward area. It%26#39;s about 4 miles each way and elevation change of 3,000 feet. It took us 8 1/2 hours roundtrip, but I know others do it in less time. We stopped a lot, enjoyed the views, got passed by a black bear family about 30-50 feet from us, and hiked through many different environments. The weather was not the best - cloudy, fog, light rain all day, so we saw just a small portion of the Icefield from the top, but the whole hike was interesting. Be prepared to be totally exhausted though.





By the way, I found the best info about different hikes in Alaska at www.akhs.atfreeweb.com/search_hikes.htm

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